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Restoring the building
When we arrived Cascina Desderi in the middle of
March 2003 and saw the two old houses on the hilltop
with 360 degrees views – bella vista – towards
the Monferrato hills in the south backed by the Maritime
Alps, the impressive summits of the French Alps in the
west and the south facing slopes of the vines that formed
a green blanket underneath us, the intuition told us
that we had come home. We had found the ideal location.
And since the type of grape growing here was the Barbera,
the decision was an easy one. The one minor thing to
settle was the price, terms and closing date and then
establish whether official regulations permitted the
conversion from a traditional farm to agro tourism –
an operative farm with rental apartments. And last,
but not least – we had to find a builder that
could be responsible for the entire project; to convert
the two houses that were in shambles into apartment
suites that would satisfy the most discerning guest.
We are forever grateful to Ute and Angelike, the two
realtors from Piedmont Properties who navigated us through
the Italian bureaucracy and banking system and introduced
us to our “Geometra”. The geometra is the
architect, the planner, the liaison between the City
Hall and the builder, the one who collects all permits
and important stamps to make things happen. Geometra
Pesce made things happen, the master builder Jose did
not have the word imposible in his vocabulary –
and since we did not even speak tourist Italian, it
was a blessing that the Geometra’s son, Alfonso
(who studies architecture in Genoa) spoke English and
was present at most meetings. When he was not there
and we needed assistance with language and translations,
we always could count on Elisabeth at the Hotel Reale
– our second home in the start-up-phase. Now it
is February, and the building is in progress –
the main house is 99% completed, and the guest apartments
are under construction.”
Trond
and Roald took over Cascina Desderi on July 11th 2003.
As soon as the Italian industrial holiday – ferie
– was over at the end of August, the restoration
process started. The renovation of the main house –
Casa Padronale – was under way from September
to December, and on December 23 they could greet the
first guests a warm welcome; guests from the Moby Dick
era that had become personal friends stayed from Christmas
to New Years. Then another group of friends arrived
to celebrated New Years on the farm – Cascina
Desderi had greeted its first guests and was underway
to become a vineyard “hotel”.
As these lines are being written, the building process
is on a steady course – and the timeframe for
the entire project “Cascina Desderi” –
is as follows:
Casa Padronale, 200 sq. meters – with gourmet
kitchen including fireplace and forno (pizza oven),
living/dining room, library/lounge, bedrooms, bathrooms,
hall, laundry and terrace and balcony are 99% completed.
The end of February will se the main house 100% finished
with the old glory of yesteryears intact plus all the
amenities of the 21st century, in place.
La cantina – the wine cellar – a guildhall
like underground storage room for wine and produce,
has been sandblasted and brought back to its original
glory. 200 years old red bricks in a fishbone pattern
under impressive arches. Unfortunately all the old barrels
– some local and the old Slovenian oak barrels
– were too rotten and full of fungi to revive
and use in the forthcoming wine production. What remains
to be done is the rewiring of electricity, spots in
the ceiling to accentuate the old bricks and lay tiles
on the floors. Luckily we have a multitude of old and
antique “cotto”, that will be the new “old”
floor of the wine cellar. We still have one year to
decide whether to be “modernists” and use
the small French barrique barrels – or be “traditionalists”
and use the large, Slovenian oak barrels. Time will
show….
Cascina Desderi will start its own wine production in
2005, or more correctly; we will take over the vines
and the vineyard on 11.11.04. From then on we will have
the full responsibility of the pruning, binding, spraying,
trimming, picking and harvesting – the whole process
from pruning to bottling. The aim is to have our own
production of Cascina Desderi’s Barbera d’Asti
Vino Rosso, ready to serve for the 2006 Winter Olympics
in Torino. The cantina is app. 100 square meters and
is in immaculate condition and perfect for storing in
barrels and bottles. When the wine production is well
under way and the shelves and barrels are bountiful,
we will arrange wine tasting and other events under
the arches of the old cellar.
Refurbishing
When we arrived Cascina Desderi a sunny day in March
2003, we were immediately impressed by the splendid
location,
the wonderful vistas in all directions and the vines
with light green leaves – lined up straight as
arrows on the southern, sloping hill. What did NOT impress
us was the condition of the buildings and the overall
shabby appearance of the entire place. A ramshackle
shed was leaning against the façade and an old
tarpaulin was flapping in the wind, trash and waste
from the last 50 years were allover, dogs and cats were
barking and miaowing in a false duet – while the
hens and roster were walking freely, and the baby chickens
flew all over to get away from the cat’s claws.
Our elegant realtor, Ute de Vargas - a retired opera
singer – pulled the shawl around herself, and
exclaimed: “This is absurd, however, you must
see through all this shit and rubble and envision the
potential this place has.” We had brought our
Finnish friend Irene along as a consultant as she speaks
fluent Italian. She also thought the place was absurd.
She did, however, see the potential and fell in love
with the place that very moment. We clearly saw the
potential as well, but our love affair had to be somewhat
more realistic – lots of renovations were obviously
necessary (we have been involved in building previously
in Florida and Norway), so we wanted to get some experts’
opinions before committing ourselves.
Upon
returning the last week of April the region was even
more stunningly beautiful than before – the whole
region seemed to be in full bloom, and even the place
had started to undergo some initial cleaning and general
renovation. We brought with us our building partner
from Florida, Jeff and his wife Suzanne, an engineer
uncle and aunt, and a Swedish lady from California.
The 80-year-old engineer uncle would definitely not
even consider a project like that at his age, but maybe
if he had been younger…. The aunt wondered where
to begin? The American builder recommended to “knock
the whole shit down, bulldoze it!” – while
the Missus said; “it’s a challenge guys,
and lots, and lots of work.” The Swede from California
wondered about the plumbing, if there were hot and cold
water – “and where’s the toilet?”
(There was none, just a hole in the floor next to the
barn…).
The condition of the vines was immaculate as they had
been nursed and cultivated by a competent and responsible
caretaker. The grape and wine perspective was such a
vital factor… neglected vines overgrown by weed
and full of fungi are beyond repair and are irreplaceable
– but houses! They can be fixed. The inevitable
question was; does one dare to start a project like
this in another country - in a country so tainted with
the most horrible and fearful stories of cheated people
and a culture of bribes. Would the language –
or lack there of – be a major disadvantage? After
all, we would not be able to communicate while in the
initial stages of the building process. And what about
contractors, permits and the infamous Italian bureaucracy?
Would we get the necessary building permits, and could
the architects, notaries, lawyers, artisans and workers
be trusted? And what about this guy with the suspicious
title “geometra”?
We spent May doing our preparations and checked whatever
was possible from the USA. We negotiated in June, reached
an agreement at the end of the month, and closed on
the property on July 11, 2003. Checks changed hands,
a handshake – then we had the key ring in our
hands. We were the proud proprietors of a vineyard.
This was, however, only the beginning. Now the real
work is about to begin. Renovation, refurbishing and
restoration – it had to be done with respect for
traditions and old styles. We had to be humble and incorporate
everything Piemontese with an open mind. This region
is immensely proud of its cultural inheritance; on one
hand they welcome foreign investors – they restore
old farms, villas and villages that the Italians themselves
have long neglected, on the other hand they demand that
the local customs and traditions are honored. Of all
this we were perfectly aware, and started the project
with a humble go-ahead spirit!
The process
We have to admit; all our doubts and worries about finances,
payments, permits, contractors, artisans and workers
had been in vain. On all aspects they have followed
up, and the trust that they have put in us have been
formidable. We cannot praise our geometra, the contractor
and all his workers and artisans high enough. This praise
is given in February, while the first building phase
has been completed – and the second one is well
underway.
The
following description is rather detailed, and is geared
towards those with a special interest in renovation
and building:
First Phase (99% completed)
Status on the main house (from 1860) was as follows
when we took it over: The roof was leaking, ceiling
tiles missing and beams party rotten, water had seeped
in through the arched ceilings and walls and caused
fungi to spread. All floors were uneven and the tiles
had to be taken up. It was running cold water in the
kitchen, but no waste water system – only a pipe
going out through a hole in the wall. No bath or toilet.
The only heating was from a wood burning fireplace and
a kitchen stove. Two other fireplaces were sealed tight.
All windows dried out and partly rotten, partly broken
windowpanes. The house had originally had 21 windows,
now most of the window spaces facing north had been
covered with cement. The façade of the house
was completely destroyed. Outside were window shutters
cracked and falling apart. The old balcony felt unsafe
and was too small for today’s need for outdoor
space. Exterior and interior doors too tight or loose
and hard to open/close. Electric cords partly ruined
with copper shining through. An old staircase leading
down to the wine cellar was partly gone with an open
shaft at the bottom. The wine cellar “cantina”
was nice and dry, but full of dirt, dust and hundred
years’ old cobwebs, cockroaches and numerous other
insects from the darkness of the Italian countryside.
After having accepted the offer from the geometra,
the workers went full steam ahead in the beginning of
September – and the following has been done:
The entire roof demolished, new beams and eternit cover
in place with “new antique” ceiling tiles
laid. New gutters in copper. 3 new chimneys. The stucco
removed from the whole house. All windows except for
3 taken out. All old floor tiles taken out, as these
are antique, they have been rinsed and polished and
laid back in place – due to some breakage the
floors will be laid back in cotto (antique tiles), granite
and mosaic medallions combined. Mould and old clay from
underneath the cotto taken up and carried out. All water,
gas, electric and heating pipes for radiators will be
covered in the floors – to serve kitchen and baths,
the gas stove, electric outlets of the entire house
and central heating. The entire el, water and gas system
will be entirely covered and hacked into the redbrick
and stucco. A system for alarm, TV, telephone, parabola,
gate phone and opener is installed simultaneously. A
new upstairs balcony with dimensions 15 x 2.5 meters
is constructed to replace the little, old one, this
new balcony will serve as ceiling for the portico terrace
on the ground floor. 5 French doors installed, 6 locked
up and covered windows opened up and replaced with brand
new ones. The new number of windows are back to the
original 21. New front door and door to terrace. New
window sills in marble. New railing in cast iron on
staircase. New window bars for ground floor. 42 door
and window shutters. New iron bar door facing the portico
and new iron bars for cantina windows. New staircase
leading down to wine cellar. New wooden handrail. 3
new fire places and a forno. Gourmet kitchen in chestnut
with antique – rustico look – fully integrated.
New toilets, bidets, showers & cabinets, tub and
vanity sinks and bathroom furniture. Laundry room. 10
exterior lamps.
Coinciding
with above the following has been completed outdoors:
Dig down a subterranean septic tanks and pipes, these
will be connected with those of the rental apartments.
Dig down a subterranean gas tank and lead in pipes to
the main house and cascina respectively. New exterior
electricity to support increased power inside. Dig down
new water and thicker water pipes and connect with official
water system.
Second phase – in the works:
Status on “la Cascina” – the rental
apartments to be – was as follows at the time
of closing:
The roof was leaking, ceiling tiles missing and beams
party rotten, water had seeped in above the barn part
of the building, but due to the fact that there was
a dirt floor this had caused no severe damage. All the
floors in the farmer’s quarters were in acceptable
condition, albeit somewhat uneven. The floors still
need to be broken up, including the old “cotto”
– the floor tiles, as electricity, water, gas,
wastewater, radiator heating, TV and telephone pipes/lines
will be hidden in the floors. It was running cold water
in the kitchen, but no waste water pipe as the water
was carried out in buckets. No bath or toilet. Only
heating was from a wood-burning kitchen stove. Three
other fireplaces were sealed tight. Most windows dried
out and partly rotten, partly broken windowpanes. Some
of the outside window shutters were cracked and falling
apart. Exterior and interior doors too tight, impractical
or loose and hard to open/close. Electric cords partly
ruined with copper shining through. The old portico
is about to fall to pieces.
The farmer’s living quarters: Surprisingly in
better condition than the main house, and the 4 main
rooms there will be no need for severe renovation.
The hay loft: No ceiling, open towards the interior
roof and tiles. Walls and floors of good standard.
The barn: Dirt floors and no ceiling, open up to tiles
of exterior roof. No windows as they had been sealed
off and closed with bricks.
The stable: beautiful old ceiling in good condition,
cement floor and old & cracked windows.
Portico: Falling apart, cannot be saved, must be torn
down.
The following work is now in progress (mid February):
The old cotto has been taken off all floors in the living
quarters. These are to be cleaned and rinsed to be floor
in the catina. They are digging with an excavator 60
cm down to allow the ceiling height to become 2.70 m.
and to give space for all the pipes and lines. They
are cutting through brick and cement walls to give space
for connecting doors between all apartments.
When all the excavation work is finished, the scaffolding
are built around the house and the following work will
start:
Dismantle the entire old roof, a brand new one will
be built with new breams, and eternit cover in place
with “new antique” ceiling tiles laid. New
gutters in copper. 8 new chimneys. The stucco removed
from the whole house. All windows taken out. All old
floor tiles taken out and saved, as these are antique.
Mould and old clay from underneath the cotto taken up
and carried out. All water, gas, electric and heating
pipes for radiators will be covered in the floors –
to serve kitchen and baths, the gas stove, electric
outlets of the entire house and central heating. The
entire el, water and gas system will be entirely covered
and hacked into the redbrick and stucco. A system for
alarm, TV, telephone, and parabola. The old balcony
from the main house will be replaced outside the landing
of the staircase, and will be for exclusive use of he
Cortese apartment. Two new 1st floor staircases and
balconies will be built outside the Barbera and Dolcetto
Apartments. A new portico will be built outside Nebbiolo,
and terraces will be built outside Moscato and Brachetto.
New front doors and door to terraces. New panorama windows,
sliding doors and window sills in marble. 7 fireplaces
and one forno. New window bars for ground floor. New
toilets, bidets, showers & cabinets, tub and vanity
sinks and bathroom furniture. Laundry room. Office &
reception area. Caldaya – radiator room and hot
water tank. When all this in completed, the actual design
of the apartments will commence – with textiles,
furniture, paint, kitchens and decoration in general.
Third phase – the last:
The last building phase will at times take place simultaneously
with the second. The wine production hall of Casa Grignolino
will be built as a casina on the ground/subterranean
floor, while the apartment will be built on top of it
in the old “rustico” style. The ground floor
will house the production hall for the newly harvested
wine in temperature controlled steel tanks. A big sterile
room with tiles, constructed according to the latest
EU regulations – and also those of the Norwegian
Wine & Spirit Monopoly.
The first floor will include the apartment exclusively.
We are applying for 80-100 sq. m. As this will be a
new construction – still kept in the rustico style,
the geometra assumes the building process will be considerably
shorter than the refurbishing of the old houses. As
per today an exact date has still not been set, but
the aim is to have it finished in September.
Simultaneously the swimming pool is built, the terraces
for the apartments in the ground floors are laid and
planted, and the entire outdoor area, courtyard and
gardens will be planned by a landscape architect –
to plan a garden that will be green for 12 months, the
flowerbeds are to blossom spring, summer and fall. A
vegetable and herb garden will be part of it. The last
touch is given the courtyard, garden paths, lawns and
pool area.
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